Five years ago I quit drinking alcohol and honestly can’t imagine ever having another drop.  It started with a powerful and clear intention to release my craving for alcohol, and it worked.  I couldn’t be more grateful and proud of myself.

I’m ready to take on flour and sugar.  These man made chemicals as it turns out, are only one molecule off alcohol.  Great, alcohol you can chew.

My neighbor Justina is an integrated health MD who also teaches mandala workshops.  She was describing the cathartic and meditative process that comes from creating with all the senses.  A lightbulb went off in my brain.  Take the cupcake, cookie and bread left over from last night’s binge (day 4 of my 1 day a week cheat day), into my hands and not my body.

First, the supplies – coffee grounds (yes I added coffee to the chopping block), cupcake, cookie and cinnamon loaf:

Now, the scene –  music, incense, candles and tea make this an official ceremony.

I wish I had a video of what happened next. I picked up the cupcake first and winced while I squeezed it in my hands. It was disgusting. Greasy, cold, dead. Not food. I began mixing everything up together, flattening it out like a pancake. All the while Justina asked me about my void, and why I was trying to fill it. I told her about my earliest memories of hiding under my bed when I got in trouble. Wanting to hide and escape. Where I honed my rockstar sleeping skills and my avoidance tactics.

Next thing I knew, this scary clown monster with a cherry nose was mocking me.  I felt like his hands were actually waving in the air behind him.  The heart mouth kills me.  Love is usually associated with ingesting these toxins.  Either someone you love gives you the sweet little bastards, or you feed them to yourself when you need love.

Sadly, I didn’t take a photo of the next part so you’ll have to use your imagination.  After I made peace with Stephen King’s IT, I mushed it all together into a big round, flat pile.  Then I started drawing squiggly lines from the top down.  Justina suggested I was now trying to find a path through the shit.  I pictured what my poor body, its 50 trillion cells, has to go through every time I eat this crap.  I felt sad for my body.  The pathways got bigger and eventually formed into little islands.  You get the picture.

The resolution.  The empty heart is now filled.  The islands, now magically forming a protective barrier resembling a fat bird or butterfly (or later, when I had to go #2, I saw something different).

Despite what looks like the the remains of a bloody carcass, I feel peaceful, even keel and happy.  I sense a new freedom and commitment to my healthy future.  I can picture my 5 year old self (helps to have a 5 year old niece).  She did her best to find comfort and survive in an alcoholic family.  My body has done its best to digest the toxins I’ve fed it, in my search for wholeness.

It has been 5 days and I haven’t had a lick of flour, sugar or coffee. I haven’t had any cravings either. Not one.  This bowl of organic strawberries,  homemade kale chips and pinto beans are just a few of the delectable edibles I’ve ingested.  Now when I see sweet treats in the store, I say to myself, “NOT FOOD”.  When they order pizza at work, I think…nope, NOT FOOD.  It really is that simple.

The next time I feel like eating crap, I’m just going inhale the aroma, enjoy the visual creation, and try really hard to not spoil everyone else’s numb.  If that doesn’t work, I’ll put duck tape over my mouth and just use my hands.  Way more fun.

The town has painted these people-murals on many of the local buildings. Most are cute or charming, but some are kind of creepy. Don’t know what to think about the little guy above.

The next day after a hundred good-byes, Megan headed back to the world of high-flying executive super-stardom. After a shopping stop in Portland, she was back on the 5 southbound to Sausalito to get ready for her new gig. Early reports are that it is an awesome situation. We’ll have more in a few days.

Sugar convinced me to soldier on, at least for a while. So we headed for Deception Pass to shoot the rapids. The pass is 200 feet wide, and can rage at 8 knots if you get there at the wrong time.
We made it no problem at slack tide, then set sail down the inside of Skagit Bay to Holmes Bay, where Chris and Susan Olberding are living the good life on the waterfront in Freeland on Whitbey Island.

After tying up to their mooring with a front-row seat, the only obstacle was the low-tide mudflat. It looked like sand but is more than a foot deep! That first step is a doozy, and I was up to my knee in mud. I had a nice audience to look cool for.

Sugar was in dirty-dog heaven, doing spins and runs back and forth through the stinky mud. Little crabs scurried out of our way, with much bigger dungeness crab waiting for us out in the bay. Chris took 41 crab over the weekend, so you can imagine we ate really well. Sugar found new people to play ball with, and only took a few breaks to flatten the flower beds. Sorry!?!?

Boats slowly filled in during the day Friday, getting ready for the big show. The weather really couldn’t have been any better.

Coming back from the boat that afternoon, I had a heck of a surprise when who should appear, but my mom, Claire, and Bryan. I couldn’t really believe my eyes at first, and Sugar went nutty, jumping four feet in the air. Someone was shooting video, which I’ll post shortly.

We had a great time hanging out and catching up. Claire is 5 months pregnant with their first and positively glowing. Those two are pretty darn cute! Mom slept out on the boat, and Claire and Bryan slept down on the dock, sharing the sunrises with the herons and other little birdies.

Freeland shoots the fireworks off on the 3rd for some reason, and the view was incredible from the Olberding’s back yard. The fireworks barge was almost front and center.

Thanks to G-Dubb for the photo.

Claire, Bryan, mom and I took off for an awesome sail up the bay on July 4th. Everyone had a nice nap enjoying Either Way’s mellow ride. So fun sharing just a little piece of my/our life up here cruising around.

The weather closed in after everyone headed back on Sunday, but I’m warm and dry in Chris and Susan’s living room. Will take off in the next day or so for points unknown. Stay tuned!

We recovered with some serious Yatzee tournaments (Megan scored 4 Yatzees in one game), but it seems there was one real casualty on our return trip to Stuart Island: Sugar got stung by something on her nose, which turned into a rash, which turned into a scab that she had a heck of a time keeping her paws off of.

We fixed her fiddling with a modified paint bucket. Poor thing looks like a monstrous surprise in your movie theater popcorn. Sugar is cool with the bucket because it always seems to have treats in it. She’s taking it easy and healing fine.

After a quick visit to the rocks off Yellow Island where we left a little bottom paint (hey, that red buoy isn’t on our old charts), we headed up to Blind Bay to wait out a storm that never arrived. We did catch an incredible sunset and a horizon to horizon double rainbow though, which was cool.

After that, it was off to the big city lights of Friday Harbor to see The Hangover. One of the best films we’ve seen in awhile. We’re still laughing about it a week later.

Has this ever happened to you?

The Holmbergs stopped in at Friday Harbor on the ferry heading back from Canada. We had a great time with our Hommies as always.

Those Holmbergs can bowl! Who knew the best pizza in town would be at the bowling alley. Ray and Paul made a new friend in Popeye the one-eyed seal that hangs out waiting for frozen herring. Evidently Popeye is a she, and pregnant with her second pup in as many years. Who knew? The guys are also pretty good shrimpers with the huge solstice tides we’ve been having.

Then we were off for one last jaunt through the islands before our lives take yet another dramatic turn (wait for it… wait for it…)

We headed out to Jones Island, which had been packed with boats the first time we passed. We just had to see what the fuss was all about. Not a huge deal in the guides, but one of our favorite stops. Great hiking and fantastic views. Otters swimming in the eelgrass a stones throw from the boat, fawns leaping through the brush above, and clear water all around. Jones Island is a winner if you can avoid the weekend crowds!

We had a spectacular downwind sail through President’s Channel on our way back to Sucia for one last visit.

We opted for Echo Bay this time as it has the best protection from a strong Westerly wind which arrived right on schedule that night. Our anchor held well, as did everyone else, which was a good thing since there were about 30-40 boats in there with us.

The tides and weather looked right for a quick trip back to Anacortes where Megan is jumping ship! The big news is that Megan is heading back to the employed world. Our last cruise ended when Nick got an offer he couldn’t refuse, and this time Megan is being sucked back in.

Autonomy is an incredible company whose stock continues to rise at an alarming pace. They make software systems that derive meaning from the growing amount of data out there. She is Customer Liaison Support Manager, working with the rock star she worked with in the tech heydays before our last cruise.

Megan heads back down to Sausalito this week to put our household back together, while Nick continues sailing for a few weeks before packing the boat to ship south at the end of July. Sugar is going to take up the slack and keep Either Way looking pretty.

Evidently this schoolhouse won some architectural awards when it was built in the 1980s. Cool. There are no school-aged children on the island now, so it looks to be more of a museum or meeting hall than anything else. They still mow the mini-soccer field next door for some reason.

The little teacher’s quarters house next door had some historical information about the early settlers. A rough looking bunch, but you have to be amazed by how hard it must have been back then. It was especially hard for the visiting teachers. They had a poster with sample rules for the [female] teachers (from the early 1900′s I hope): 1. No riding in cars with men other than father or brother, 2. No eating ice cream or smoking cigarettes in town, 3. You may not leave the island without the permission of the chairman, 4. No fraternizing with men. One lady hung herself in her father’s barn. Maybe she couldn’t deal with the rules. Can’t even imagine.

Well, this is where you can buy some tourist shwag (and mail them payment). Kind of cool to see that the honor system is still in place somewhere. We passed on the “Pirates of Stuart Island” t-shirts, but it was really tempting.

We made it out to the lighthouse, which was automated in the 70s. This is where we guard against invasion from Canada.

The light is really an afterthought as the tower here is covered with all sorts of cameras and sensors, presumably to watch out for smugglers, which we hear is still an issue up here. The view is incredible, and it’s great to see that there isn’t some spa-resort set up. Long live the BLM!

Stuart Island is cute and quaint, but a lonely island overall, with a lot of no trespassing signs. We did see one local on THE road. She gave a cautious wave. Not sure we see the appeal of this lifestyle, but to each their own.

Reid Habor is really comfortable and protected, but we felt the need to move on, so we headed out to Garrison Bay on San Juan Island.

This is where the Brits set up a last ditch effort to claim part of the San Juans after the US incorporated the west. They gave in, and now this a park that sports the “largest maple tree in the world.” Can’t confirm that, but it sure is big.

Next we were back at Roche Harbor for a pit stop and some groceries, then we are back out to Provost Bay to meet Nick’s uncle and aunt on their powerboat. So fun to hook up with other travelers. Yes, those are clouds in the background. Weather has turned a little bit cooler with some morning clouds, but we aren’t complaining!

And finally, here is the gratuitous Sugar-shot. She still approves of the lifestyle we think.

Before we get to that story, meet our favorite Anacortians, Larry and Marla. As our luck would have it, our boat was birthed 3 slips down from theirs for a month. They’re the cream of the cruising community, generously bestowing books, a land side dinner, island tips, rides, mailing address and home for our car while we’re out cruising.

Back to the departure plans…Larry snapped this photo as we left our slip and headed one boat over to fuel up before heading out for a few weeks. Everything was perfect, the weather, the crew, the boat…or so we thought!

After a few clunks and diagnostics from the engine room, it seems our luck had run out. However, of all the places to run out, we did get lucky. Turns out the transmission cable broke. In other words we lost our ability to shift into forward and reverse from the cockpit. Ironically, this is the third time (on two boats) this has happened. Generally speaking it isn’t a common occurrence.

This repair would have cost us over $800 and several days had it not been for my captain/yogi Nick. I wish I’d captured his twisted body upside down in what looked like the dolphin pose. I have no idea how he does it, but times like these remind me why I’m so comfortable with him at the helm.

Finally, some downwind sailing to the outer islands of Sucia – can you believe how cute this dog is?? Wow, look out for the tanker.

Sucia is our favorite so far. The island is shaped like a hand with lots of anchoring and mooring options in between the fingers. The best part is there is nothing but trails and campsites on the island!!

When Nick saw this photo he said, “wow, we sure are white”. We are, but the sunscreen kicks it up a notch!

The island is alive with birds and sweet smells for everyone.

Looks like Nick is about to be swallowed up by a big clam!

After 5 nights we were thrilled to pull into Roche Harbor, the Monaco of the NW. Especially since the last night was quite uncomfortable with gusty winds and swells. We’ll only stay a night this time before heading out to Stuart Island later today. Can you believe we have another sunny day on tap?

Let’s go!

We still can’t get over how close all the islands are to each other. Within 3-4 hours we were on the north end of Shaw Island across from Orcas Island. At first glance the options seem overwhelming. However, once you start zeroing in on places that allow you to both go ashore and bring your dog, it becomes pretty easy. Lots of private property up here!

We were happy to find the last of three moorings available at Blind Island where we could relax and soak in the sun.

The next morning Sugar insisted we row ashore and explore the 2 acre island. It was another HOT day – as you can see I broke out the shorts (my legs are even whiter than my arms). It’s a sweet little island that you can camp on as long as you kayak in.

We headed back eastward the next day and played daredevil for the fun of it. The guidebooks say that the narrow passage (20 meters) between Spencer Spit and a private island off its tip is deep enough to pass, as long as you hug the rocks. With a steady breeze filling in, we tempted fate by sailing through! No problem.

The gods weren’t impressed, and paid us back by turning the wind direction 180 degrees overnight, making for an aweful night’s sleep as gusts at the bottom of Lopez Sound gusted to 33 knots for hours on end. Brought back painful memories of crazy nighttime winds on Low Pressure down in the Channel Islands six years ago. At least the moon was beautiful as we stood watch into the wee hours. Overall a good reminder that we are at nature’s mercy and just have to roll with the punches sometimes.

Sugar fared the best and came up to cuddle with Nick in the cockpit for a couple of hours. All is well the next day, and we’ll head back in for our last provisioning before Monday’s BIG departure.

I’m so happy we did because we really got a feel for the place. Being a spit, we had two long beaches to hike (and throw the ball for Sugar – she is addicted) with an island across from the tip. Believe it or not, we could have brought our boat through this narrow passage.

We were pleasantly reminded how much time slows down with this lifestyle, and how three days literally feels like a week. It is so luxurious to have unlimited time to reflect, read and talk against such a beautiful backdrop.

I have to say I love that Nick enjoys rowing us around in our dingy so much. I wish you could see all the starfish and creatures clinging to the rocks.

Our last night was the best. Nick’s uncle Chris and aunt Susan came out to see us on their gorgeous boat! It was so fun to visit on their upper deck for sunset and then watch an episode of “Breaking Bad” in style. We can’t wait to meet up with them again soon!!

Alas, it was time to head back to the dock for food, laundry, water, and of course more boat work! The sail home was perfect – can you imagine the Olympics off to your right, because they were gorgeous too. We also saw a submarine and dolphins playing in our wake!

Sugar didn’t seem too impressed…or maybe she was just tired from all that ball chasing!

One more Sugar snap, I couldn’t resist!

We finally headed out to the islands for a couple days to see if this boat actually sails. She does, and well! A few questions from people about: why this boat? What is different from Low Pressure (last boat)? Didn’t Megan swear off sailing forever after the crazy storms on the last trip?

Bottom line is that this boat is unconventional (like anyone you know?), and is very easy to sail. That means safety and comfort, and that’s what it’s all about for us these days. The rig is called a cat-ketch. There are are two masts instead of one, which means each sail is smaller and more manageable. The masts are made out of carbon fiber and don’t have any standing rigging (wires holding them up) so there is less to break and fewer (almost no) dependent parts. Since there are no headsails, when you tack or gybe (turn the boat through the wind), you don’t really do anything except turn the wheel and go in a new direction. Simple + easy= more fun!

One big question we had was about sailing with Sugar – she is critical to a happy team: if Sugar no-likey, we no likey. At first she decided the best place to be would be under the helm, but later she headed up on deck all by herself! We’ll have to keep the life jacket on her for sure.

Cypress Island was our first foray into the San Juans. Only a couple of hours away and we’re transported to a completely undeveloped and primitive landscape.

We hiked the north end of the island, stopping over at Duck Lake (mostly a lillipad bog), and a wonderful pebble beach (if nobody is around, is it really trespassing?) for a quick rest and snack. Sugar took the initiative for a little swim. She is a water dog for sure.

Back at the dock to celebrate birthdays, then we’ll be off to the islands again. One look at a chart and we can see a thousand possibilities.

The sun is back and the 10 day forecast looks amazing! We’re busy getting ready for Either Way’s maiden voyage tomorrow and know that either way it will be exciting. I thought it was time to show you around the inside of our new home. Correction, you’ll be viewing the “port” side mostly; starboard side is FULL of tools still being used before finding a home.

I thought it would be funny to place the little Buddha on top of the stove only to realize now that it barely looks like a piece of chocolate. The little guy has been with us for a long time, so long we can’t even remember when or where we got him.

The v-birth is impossible to photograph, so use your imagination. I can assure you it is very comfortable and spacious though.

I asked Nick to guess how many steps it was from our boat to land and he guessed 600. After making the trek about 30 times over the past week, I came up with 430. Slips are hard to come by, so being at the end of the dock near the fuel pump is what it is. We’re not complaining, it is great exercise.

Nick secured our anchoring options today – we have 2 ready to go on the bow and another in the cockpit for safe measure.

Sugar guarded the cockpit most of the day, she is really good at it.

We ended the day by hoisting the forward sail and trying to figure out how this cat rigged boat works. Cool star huh?

Well it’s 12:21am and we just finished watching Frost/Nixon, now that’s one tricky Dick! Another reason we’ve been sleeping in until 9:00! Sleep tight, thanks for tuning in.

Supermom Jane brought Sugar and I up to Anacortes last Wednesday and we had a great dinner at “Adrift” followed by a night at the movies with Star Trek. It was a sweet reunion to see my bearded husband after 9 days!

Aside from been drugged up on cold medicine, adjusting to boat life was made easy by day after day of beautiful weather. We believe Sugar loves the boat, even though she requires assistance getting from the cockpit to the salon. The truth is she’s pretty easy to please, especially when she gets to be with us all day. The feeling is mutual and we can’t imagine our life without her.

Washington Park is right next to the marina and we’ve been exploring it almost daily. Anacortes really is on the doorstep to some incredible and close cruising grounds, so we’re excited to leave the dock and do some exploring later this week when the sun comes out.

For now, we’ll keep warm in the v-birth with our newly found internet, cruising guides, new books (Gods Behaving Badly and the Highest Tide) and the sound of rain drops overhead. Hope everyone is doing great!